Bouldering Glossary
Scoring, moves, and competition terms — A to Z
This glossary defines about 50 bouldering terms organized A-Z. Each term has a 1-2 sentence definition aligned with IFSC rules and standard climbing community usage. Use it as a reference when reading event briefs, scoring rules, or judging instructions.
A
- Attempt
A single try on a boulder, counted from the moment the climber's feet leave the ground. Multiple attempts on the same boulder accumulate; under IFSC 25/10/-0.1, each failed attempt before a top or zone subtracts 0.1 point.
B
- Beta
Information about how to climb a specific problem — the sequence of holds, body positions, or tricks that unlock the route. Sharing beta during a competition's observation window is allowed; sharing during the climb is not.
- Boulder
A short climbing route, typically 4-8 moves, set on a wall up to about 4.5 meters high without ropes. Falls land on crash pads. Used interchangeably with 'problem.'
- Brushing
Cleaning chalk and rubber buildup off holds with a brush between climbers. Done by route judges or dedicated staff to keep hold conditions consistent across all attempts.
C
- Campus
A move that uses only the hands, with no foot contact. Common on overhung problems where dynamic upper-body strength matters more than footwork.
- Category
A division of athletes by age and gender. IFSC age categories from 2025: U15 (Youth C), U17 (Youth B), U19 (Youth A), U21 (Junior), Senior. The athlete's age on December 31 of the competition year determines the category. (Pre-2025 used U14/U16/U18/U20 ranges.)
- Chalk
Magnesium carbonate powder applied to hands for grip. Allowed in all competition formats; chalk balls are recommended at indoor venues to limit dust.
- Chief Judge
The senior judge responsible for protest decisions, rule interpretation, and the final word on disputed scores. Route judges escalate any unclear top, zone, or attempt count to the chief judge.
- Circuit
A competition format where athletes rotate through numbered problems with a timed window per problem. Each climber attempts every boulder in sequence; judges at each station validate tops and zones.
- Compression
A move style where the climber squeezes large features (volumes, bulges, opposing holds) to stay on the wall. Common on slabs and arêtes.
- Controlled hold
The standard for awarding a top or zone: the climber must establish stable contact with the marked hold, with the body settled enough to attempt the next move. A momentary slap that releases on the same swing does not count.
- Crimp
A small edge gripped with fingertips. Full crimp uses the thumb wrapped over the index finger for extra force; half crimp uses fingers without thumb wrap.
- Cross-through
A move where one hand reaches across the body to a hold beyond the opposite shoulder, briefly trapping the other arm.
D
- Dab
Touching a part of the wall, mat, or volume that was not intended as part of the problem. Some rule sets disqualify the attempt; others allow it. Check the chief judge briefing.
- Drop knee
Also called Egyptian. A foot position using two footholds where the inside hip rotates toward the wall, dropping the same-side knee. The opposing tension between the feet locks the body close to the wall and frees a hand for a longer reach.
- Dyno
A dynamic move where the climber generates upward momentum to latch a distant hold. In the strictest all-points-off dyno, both feet and both hands leave the wall mid-move; weaker dynos may keep one foot or one hand in contact.
E
- Edge
A flat, incut climbing hold. Edges range in size from huge ledges down to a fingertip-only sliver — a crimp is the smallest sub-type of edge. The grip used (open, half-crimp, full crimp) is independent of the hold.
F
- Final
The last round of a multi-stage competition. In IFSC format, finals follow qualification and semi-final rounds; only top-ranked athletes compete in finals.
- Flag
A balance technique where one foot is positioned as a counterweight to prevent barn-door rotation. Three variants: outside flag (foot off the wall), inside flag (foot crosses behind/in front of the supporting leg), and back flag.
- Flash
Topping a boulder on the first attempt after observing the problem (and possibly hearing beta). Worth 15 points in scramble format; worth 25 points (no penalty) in IFSC 25/10/-0.1.
- Foot match
Placing both feet on the same hold simultaneously, typically as a setup for a long reach or dyno.
G
- Gaston
A grip orientation where the hand pushes outward against a vertical hold edge with the palm facing away from the body. Strenuous on the shoulder.
H
- Heel hook
Using the heel of the foot wrapped over a hold or feature to pull the body upward or stabilize position. Critical move on overhanging terrain.
- Hold
Any plastic or wooden feature attached to the wall that the climber grips with hands or steps on with feet. Holds vary in shape: jugs, crimps, slopers, pinches, pockets.
I
- Isolation
A controlled area where athletes wait between rounds without seeing competitor performances. IFSC sanctioned events require isolation for fairness.
J
- Jug
A large, easily-grippable hold. The most beginner-friendly hold type.
K
- Knee bar
Wedging the knee between two holds or features to create a no-hands rest. Common in cave-style climbing; sometimes deliberately blocked by setters.
L
- Lock-off
Holding a static position with one bent arm while the other hand reaches for the next hold. Requires significant pulling strength.
M
- Mantel
Pressing down on a hold with one or both hands to push the body upward, often used to top out a boulder by placing hands on a flat top surface.
- Match
Placing both hands on the same hold. Required on the top hold under most rule sets to confirm control.
O
- Onsight
Climbing a problem on the first attempt without prior beta or observation. Stricter than a flash; rare in competition because problems are public during observation.
- Open hand
A grip where the fingers stay relatively straight rather than crimped. Less stressful on the joints; used on slopers and large edges.
P
- Pinch
A hold gripped between thumb and fingers from opposing sides. Strenuous on the thumb.
A hold with a hole into which one to four fingers fit. Mono-pocket = one finger; tri-pocket = three fingers.
- Problem
Synonym for boulder. A problem is the climbing route on a boulder, defined by the start hold and top hold; intermediate holds are usually constrained by tape or color.
Q
- Qualification
The first round of a multi-stage competition. Athletes attempt a set of problems; top-ranked qualifiers advance to semi-final or final rounds.
R
- Redpoint
Sending a problem after at least one prior attempt. In bouldering competitions, any non-flash send counts as a redpoint.
- Route setter
The person (or team) who designs and constructs problems on the wall. Setting quality is the single biggest factor in athlete satisfaction at a competition.
S
- Scramble
A competition format where all problems are open simultaneously for a 2-4 hour session. Athletes self-report results via QR code or paper card. Best for festivals and gym leagues.
- Send
A successful top of a problem. Used as a verb: 'I sent it on my third try.'
- Sloper
A rounded, friction-dependent hold without a positive edge. Held by maximizing surface contact between the hand and hold.
- Smear
Pressing the foot flat against a featureless part of the wall, relying on rubber friction rather than a defined hold.
- Spray wall
A densely-set wall used for training where holds are not organized into specific problems. Climbers create their own problems freestyle.
- Start
The defined initial position of a boulder. Both hands on the marked start holds, feet on (or off) the wall depending on the problem. Movement begins from a stable start.
T
- Toe hook
Hooking the top of the toe under a hold or feature to pull the body inward. Common on overhanging problems.
- Top
The final hold of a problem, marked clearly (usually with a different colored tape). Awarded when the climber matches the hold with both hands and the body is stable.
- Topo
A diagram or printed reference showing problem starts and top holds for a competition. Some events provide topos at registration; others rely on athletes reading the wall.
V
- Volume
Large geometric shape bolted to the wall, often as a base for additional holds. Volumes can be used directly as features (mantel surface, pinch corner) or as platforms for smaller holds.
W
- Wave
A group of athletes who climb in the same time slot. Large competitions split the field into multiple waves to manage venue capacity.
Z
- Zone
An intermediate hold marked on the boulder that awards partial credit when reached. Worth 5 points in scramble format; 10 points in IFSC 25/10/-0.1 (without top).